I have now logged over 4,000 miles (6,437 km) since leaving San Diego. I am happy to report that Captain America is running like a champ. Dirty, but running like a champ. I try to clean her up when I can because riding a clean bike is much more fun for me… don’t ask me why, but it is.
I entered Canada 6 days ago at the Abbotsford crossing in Washington. For the most part, I continue to be living in rain and cold weather gear. I am really glad that I decided to get to Alaska on the frontend of the trip versus the backend. I am currently in Whitehorse (Yukon Territory) and will not even hit Alaska for another 2 or 3 days assuming the weather cooperates.
As I get farther North, the days are getting much longer. Last night I hit the rack at about 11:30pm after putting in 375 miles (604 km) of the most difficult motorcycle riding I have ever done in my life. The sun was still up… and I mean up at 11:00pm when I last checked. Now for the last 2 days of riding and why they were so difficult.
As you plan for a trip like this, you try to predict the unpredictable. The route I chose from when I left Prince George, BC was to take Hwy 16 to Hwy 37 North. The map of Hwy 37 North looked fine and as a motorcyclist you always ask locals advice about road conditions before you embark on roads that you don’t really know too much about. Several people told me “a little rough, but OK”. Well, I did both of these things and guess what? I had no idea of what I would be getting into on Hwy 37 North. First, why did I take this route? Scenic, rivers, wildlife, light traffic, and I wanted to take an alternate route on my return trip back to the US from Alaska… blah, blah, blah!
Little did I know what was in store for me on this 430 mile (692 km) stretch of journey. The weather was difficult at best. Rain and wind much of the journey, but that could happen on any route so that was not a big deal in of itself. Next let’s talk remote. Often I would ride for 30 to 60 minutes without seeing another car, truck or human being. Next up, I had over 30 miles (48 km) of dirt and gravel roads. Throw in some rain and you have very difficult riding conditions especially on a Harley loaded to the gills. These bikes do not have the suspension, etc. for that kind of riding. It was the most nerve racking 30 + miles of my riding career. I am really proud that I never dropped the bike because at times I felt like I was back on a Slip 'n Slide like when I was a kid.
I no sooner got beyond the dirt and the gravel “roads” and back onto pavement when the pavement pothole problems surfaced. This lasted for over 20 miles (32 km). They were about every 300 or 400 meters (328-437 yards) and many were the size of a basketball or bigger with many being 6 to 8 inches deep. Of course, there was never just one and no telling when more would appear. Hit one of these and you will drop the bike! The only choice I had was to reduce speed and ride the last 25 (40 km) miles or so like it was a slalom ski course. All of a sudden, looking for wildlife running in front of your bike was no longer top priority!
The next issue during the Hwy 37 North portion of the trip was that several gas stations that were supposed to be along this route were closed (two for lack of business and the third burned to the ground). Now running out of gas in a remote area like this is not high on my list. By the time I finally got gas at one station, I was on fumes and I mean fumes. I had enough to go another 50 miles (80 km) max (1 gal) and there was not way to tell when the next gas station was going to be open for business. Not a great feeling any time, but out here in the middle of nowhere is no picnic my friends!
Take all of the above and throw in two hail storms yesterday and constant on and off rain squalls and my adventure yesterday was just that. Seriously, I don’t want to have many more days like that on this trip!
That being said, now let’s talk the good. The scenery has been unbelievable as was the wildlife. I have now seen three bald eagles (two flew right over me – one at about 50 feet (15 m) above my head... so beautiful), two bears, a moose, deer, etc. Also, the people I have met have been truly incredible. It seems like every time I am in a gas station I meet some great folks. I continue to pass out by Cruising for the Cure business cards like crazy. I have had two more donations made in gas stations while filling up over the last several days and I have heard some amazing cancer stories over the last several days. Late yesterday I also met three motorcycle cops from Los Angeles who were just great guys. They had been in Alaska for over two weeks doing what? Riding motorcycles, what else! They experienced a difficult trip weather wise, but also had a great time. They really appreciated the Cruising for the Cure concept because one of their wives is a survivor.
A huge surprise for me on this trip has been how beautiful the Yukon Territory really is. I knew BC would be great because I have ridden parts of it before, but I had heard that the Yukon was so very empty and remote and I was expecting it to be much more like barren tundra that it is. In my opinion, it is stunning, simply stunning!
The people living in the Yukon are real individualists as you can imagine. A gas attendant/cafĂ© worker was telling me yesterday that in the winter they don’t do much due to the cold temps and because it only starts getting light at about 11:00AM and dark again at about 1:00 to 1:30PM. During the summer and fall they hunt, fish, and do some hiking while during the winter they stay inside due to the extremely harsh weather.
So, all in all how is the trip going? I continue to have a great time, but I am really glad the last two days are behind me. The weather today looks very good for a change, but one minute it is sunny and the next you are in the middle of a driving rain squall. Now that I am on the Alaska Hwy things appear to be easier and much safer.
By the way, current gas prices appear to have the tourists in their motor homes and SUV’s staying away. Now that I am on Hwy 1 (Alaska Hwy) I am seeing more motorcycles than I thought I would. I have met people from all over the world. See, I must not be the only crazy guy in the world attracted to an Alaskan adventure on a bike.
I should make it to Anchorage within the next several days. Even though it is sunny at the moment the weather can turn in minutes so no doubt more rain gear is in order again.
As it turns out, my packing for the trip was spot on. I brought all the right stuff to deal with the elements. I must say though that I will be real glad to hit some short sleeve weather when I get back to the lower 48 states.
All for now my friends,
Smiley
1 comment:
Hey David,
What an adventure you've taken on!! Congratulations on putting this together, and for such a worthy cause. Sounds like you've tackled the toughest terrain at the front of the trip. I hate that you and I lost contact over the years, and would love to catch up when you return... hopefully get together again with the wives. Kathy, me and the boys are all doing great (plus Sean's new bride!) We'll watch with great interest as you progress, and Kathy and I will make a donation to the cause in your name. Great Stuff! Take Care out there, and I hope that the trip continues to be everything you sought.
PS-your comments about Fletcher really brought me back to those times. Life is too short to not do what you dream of.
PPS-My young associate in the office here has relatives in New Hampshire and Massachusetts who are total motorcycle fanatics, one of them has collection of 15-20 vintage British bikes, Triumps and Nortons. He said if your trip route allows, he will make arrangements for you to meet them and see the collection. They would respond to your riding so far for a cause like SGK. The collection is near Boston. Let me know.
Mark McLaren
markm@1stlandmark.com
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